London Fashion Week: Mark Fast

MARK FAST

Tal y como dice Suzy Menkes, Mark Fast es un mago con los tejidos de punto, creando por ejemplo, un armazón de guata - de relleno- desde el cuello hasta la muñeca y utilizando esta misma técnica para conseguir un efecto de vestidos como esculturas, tridimensionales.

Pero igual que piensa que es cool presentar a modelos de talla grande en vestidos ceñidos, el diseñador parece olvidar que necesitaba mover el forro hacia adelante.

De vez en cuando, como en un vestido largo y estrecho con puntos diferentes y tejidos unidos sin problemas, el diseñador muestra su trabajo bien hecho.

Dice el diseñador que las tres cosas en que se inspira son “Warmth, Joseph Beuys and drama.” sin embargo, en este pase, había muchos looks difíciles de comprender.

Esta vez ha utilizado mucho cuero, un material nuevo para el diseñador. Y aunque, las primeros looks parecían prometedores hubo cierto punto en el desfile - puede ser cuando salió un mini vestido de punto- en que el diseñador perdió el interés de los asistentes.

De hecho, al acabar el desfile Suzy salió disparada a refugiarse en el coche que la esperaba.

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As Suzy Menkes says Mark Fast is a wizard with knits, creating a frame of padding from neckline to wrist and using the same “sausage” technique to give dresses a sculptured, three-dimensional effect. But just as he hangs on to the idea that it is cool to show plus-size models in clingy dresses, the designer seems to forget that he needs to move his line forward. Occasionally, as in a long, slim dress with different stitches and effects woven seamlessly together, he showed his way to go.
The three things that are inspiring this designer for autumn/winter 2011 are: “Warmth, Joseph Beuys and drama.”, however there were a few too many looks here that were just plain hard to fathom.
The first few looks were promising—a wrap coat with massive shoulders that looked a bit like shrubbery; a high-waisted miniskirt, trademark-tight, in a dense wool rib, with a matching crop top featuring more of that shrubbery. Later in the show, Fast sent out a variety of typically skin-baring dresses with a cool accordion pleat built into the knit, and he used the same technique in a big, drapey cardigan. But there was a certain point in this show—maybe around the time Fast sent out a super-mini knit dress, barely there in form as well as color, with a block of that shrubbery knit ringing the hemline—where he started to lose the audience.
In fact, Suzy goes quickly the car at the end of the show.

Una modelo en el backstage - Model at backstage.

Algunos asistentes al desfile - People attending at the show

Suzy Menkes & Julia Restoin-Roitefeld