jueves, 17 de septiembre de 2009

Moda en Nueva York: Primavera 2010











La Mercedes Benz fashion Week de Nueva York se celebra del 10 al 17 de Septiembre. En ella se presentan las propuestas para la primavera de 2010. Aquí os dejo algunas.

MARC JACOBS


El desfile de Marc Jacobs suele dejar el listón muy alto para el resto de diseñadores de la Fashion Week Neoyorquina y en esta ocasión, su maestría dio un giro hacia la feminidad con una pomposa y brillante colección.La colección destaca por la renovada pasión por los volantes de Jacobs. A ellos, les suma las perlas, elemento clave. La colección era puro teatro y el propio Jacobs confirmó que en esta ocasión ha viajado hasta el mundo de la ópera y el ballet.
Su querido American sportwear, la esencia del diseño asiático e iconos de la opera, se mezclan con la lencería o la sutil estética militar. Dar forma a todo esto solo se puede hacer con maestría y genialidad.



CUSTO

CAROLINA HERRERA



DAVIDELFIN
David Delfin en su primer desfile oficial en las tiendas de la Semana Mercedes-Benz de la Moda, presentó una colección de gran sastrería y enfoque - con su toque especial. "La ambigüedad se ha convertido en la médula de nuestro trabajo, transformando en una huella nuestro signo de identidad. Nosotros nos sentimos atraídos y atrapados por lo andrógeno y lo indefinido, porque provoca lo imaginario en nosotros", explicó Delfin, vía sus notas para el desfile. ¿Traducción? La ropa para dama y caballero fue prácticamente intercambiable; trajes y camisas de buen corte con elementos "indefinidos", definitivamente inusuales, como los pantalones con falda pegada o la camisa de abotonar al frente, a la que le faltaba una manga. La apariencia total de la colección se percibió fresca, primaveral, moderna, gracias a la paleta de colores que Delfin mantuvo en los verdes y los azules.


JASON WU
Jason Wu ya goza de gran reputación. Esta temporada ha contado con la colaboración delfamoso mago de eventos, Alex de Betak; inteligente cambio al St.Regis; y una colección vibrante y fuerte. El diseñador no ha dormido en tres días y pasó aproximadamente cuatro horas cosiendo a mano uno de los estilos. Y todo ese esfuerzo no decepcionó. Sus tweeds salieron controlados y maduros; y sus vestidos adornados con opulenta avestruz lucieron joviales y estimulantes. Wu redujo el largo de las prendas, pero no sacrificó todos los detalles: como cristales cosidos meticulosamente, flores con velo de organza , faldas formadas con varias capas y cintura siempre marcada.












LACOSTE


Una pasarela que sobresale sobre un mar azul poco profundo recuerda las inolvidables fotografías de Jacques-Henri Lartigue, que en la década de los 20 capturó el ocio de una generación para los que la vida era simple, deportiva y elegante. Para su colección Primavera-Verano 2010, el director creativo Christophe Lemaire, propone un giro contemporáneo a esas imágenes atemporales, reconsiderando llevar el tenis a la calle y refundar las prendas de playa como prendas para un guardarropa elegante que flotan sin esfuerzo del día a la noche.
El espectáculo comienza con un homenaje al tenis en blanco al que Lemaire llama "Matchpoint", con toques sutiles pero fuertes de color verde esmeralda y azul marino. Las mujeres pueden elegir entre una gama de clásicos ultra-modernos con un toque de firma Lemaire: un vestido de tenis ajustado combinado con zapatillas de bota de lona con el talón recortado a modo de sandalia con el contraste de color plomo, una falda de tenis con tablas de popelín para combinar bajo una capa impermeable negra para la lluvia. Los hombres pueden encontrar una pesada chaqueta de piqué de algodón con contraste de color plomo en el cuello y bolsillos, una pieza direccional, especialmente cuando se lleva sobre unos shorts.
El Tenis chic luego da paso a la elegancia en el tema de playa "Deauville", marcada por la grafica retro de productos típicos de verano, incluyendo una chaqueta de punto fino o una chaqueta ligera de tela sobre un juvenil traje de baño estilo boxer. Una chaqueta safari de algodón ligero para hombres ofrece la promesa de pasar una temporada de forma relajada y desestructurada.El desfile llega a su fin con una sinfonía en tonos azul. Para las mujeres, un vestido mini en tela de camisa Chambray y con capucha, una pieza imprescindible para una sofocante noche de verano. Mientras que los hombres reciben un look con un juego minimalista y mono-tono: tejido Fedora para las chaquetas, camisas pantalones, cinturones e incluso para los zapatos sin cordones (llamados "Plage" o "Beaches" en lengua franca), y todo mezclado con chispas azul celeste.
El final es una explosión de amarillos fluorescentes coordinados en polos, bañadores, shorts, camisetas, gafas de sol e incluso en zapatillas deportivas de malla y goma. Todo refuerza la imagen siempre del sport chic así como la idea de que las normas de la pista también pueden funcionar en los estantes de las tiendas.
ROSA CHÁ

La verdad es que esperábamos impacientes la llegada de este desfile. Se trata de la primera colección de Alexander Herchcovitch para Rosa Chá y el debut ha sido francamente interesante. Redefine la construcción de la ropa de baño y superpone topos sobre bustiers. Rosa Chá ha cambiado, Alexander le ha dado una nueva dimensión lejos de sus sexys y fantásticos bikinis, combinando y superponiendo bustiers sobre estampados de polka dots o sus pantalones y bragas de talle alto. Alexander ha querido redefinir las formas de los bañadores y bikinis cambiando su construcción tradicional. Los topos y el uso de los azules, naranjas, amarillos y verdes, sumado a esta interesante y revisada elegancia, nos traslada a los veranos de Río de Janeiro de hace más de cinco décadas.


DKNY




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Los vestidos son la esencia de sus colecciones y la próxima primavera no deja lugar a pantalones u otras opciones. Vestidos ligeros, siluetas variadas, de los vestidos-camiseta a las piezas más sugerentes o los vestidos más elegantes. Drapeados, estampados florales y sobretodo, vestidos bandage.
Los vestidos bandage fueron sin lugar a dudas la gran apuesta de la firma. La firma quería encontrar un equilibrio, logrando que aquellas cosas que a priori no deberían ser preciosas, se conviertan en preciosas. Ligereza, drapeados y estampados florales abstractos con algunos ecos de la esencia sexy de los años 80. ¿el próximo verano? frescura, comodidad, un toque sexy, elegancia y sus clutch plateados, lo justo para cautivar.





HERVÉ LEGÉR BY MAX AZIRA

Como la arena del desierto, asi es la paleta neutral de color en que se inspira esta colección. Vestidos arena, nude y crema, con efectos en brillo que producen un efecto visual interesante. Algunas piezas en denim y en negro completan la colección que se basa fundamentalmente en mini vestidos que se pegan al cuerpo como una seguna piel.


124 comentarios:

Lady B dijo...

Un resumen fantástico!!!! Me ha encantado. Enhorabuena por el maravilloso trabajo de recopilación que nos regalas.

B-esos

cheesecake dijo...

Es genial, me encantan estos desfiles y las fotos son muy chulas Srta A. Sin duda los diseños mas bonitos y elegantes son los de Carolina Herrera aunque también me han parecido espectaculares los de Jason Wu.

Lara dijo...

Vaya repaso!!!me ha gustado muxo tamb david delfin y dkny! a ver cómo son el restoo...

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Fashion and Beauty Now dijo...

Una selección fantástica, me han encantado David Delfín y Custo;)

Piluka dijo...

Muy buena selección! Me quedo con David Delfin, Custo, y DKNY.
Besitos.

Je ne sais quoi dijo...

genial el resumen!me ha encantado esta semana de la moda,los diseños de Marc Jacobs y Herve Leger son los que mas me han gustado, pero definitivamente cada colección tiene un algo especial!un besito!

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siiiii son lo mas las semanas de la moda.

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